A visit to the "City of Gods" at Dondra in southern Sri Lanka can hold some remarkable surprises. This former capital of the island and port city was once considered a prosperous land blessed by Hindu and Buddhist deities. These days, the vestiges of that golden age remain in its Galge Sanctuary. Beyond that, the city stands out for the Sri Vishnu Maha Devalaya temple. It rises above the ruins of the ancient Hindu complex that originally made the locality famous.

That said, this city appeals not only to history and religion enthusiasts. Everyone finds their slice of paradise here: families with children, groups of friends, seasoned travelers, lone wanderers. Consider its lighthouse with its splendid panorama, its deserted beaches, its surfing and its boat excursions, and more. If you fit the profile of a traveler seeking out extraordinary sites, a trip to Dondra is made for you.

A Prosperous History

A small village with a long past, Dondra was once regarded as a major Hindu pilgrimage site and a bustling port. In a distant era of medieval Sri Lanka, the locality was a flourishing port city of the Devinuwara temple. In those times, it bore the Sinhala name Devi Nuwara meaning "City of Gods" and represented for travelers a stopping point to seek the blessings of the gods. In Tamil, it was known as Then-thurai, Tevan-thurai, Tennavan-thurai, Tendhira Thottam, Tenavaram and Tanaveram. These are all variants bearing the same meaning "Lord of the Southern Port".

This place housed a multi-religious complex with Upulvan as its central deity, also called Vishnu or Tenavarai Nayanar. In its heyday, it was even one of the most sacred and popular religious sites in the peninsula. One could find an armada of Buddhist and Hindu statues in bronze and stone, eight large Dravidian-style kovil sanctuaries including two major temples dedicated to Vishnu and Shiva, as well as a central gopuram tower and covered gopura towers adorned with plates of gold, copper and brass (which earned the complex the nickname of the Golden City).

As for the Sri Vishnu Maha Devalaya temple and its Devalaya sanctuary, it was built during the reign of Dapulla I, in the 7th century. During the 16th century, Portuguese colonists ravaged the southern coast of the country, including Devi Nuwara and its temple. More precisely, in 1587 a Portuguese force led by Thome de Sousa d'Arronches besieged Dondra. These colonizers reduced to ruins and plundered every building containing valuable objects. He then entrusted the administration of the sites to the Catholics. Thanks to the determination of King Rajasinghe II of the Kandyan kingdom, Matara was freed from their occupation. He built within Devi Nuwara a temple or devale dedicated to Vishnu towards the end of the British period.

Meanwhile, the upkeep of the complex was ensured by Sinhala kings and merchants from the port city. Today, the Galge Sanctuary or Galgane remains the only standing vestige of this famous historical complex. Added to this are the granite pillars forming the mandapa of its main sanctuary, statues of Ganesh and lingam, carved effigies of Nandi and Makara Thonaram. The Vishnu sanctuary is very frequented by pilgrims and tourists in the month of Esala Poya (July/August) during the Devi Nuwara Perahera festival.

It is believed that its current name comes directly from the deformation and adaptation of Devi Nuwara to Devundara. After Anglicization, Devundara became Dondra.

Exploring Dondra

Venturing to discover this southern city gives you access to numerous attractions of interest. Its town center is easily explored on foot. You can find several Hindu and Buddhist temples, an old lighthouse still in operation, a fishing port, and idyllic beaches. If you decide to spend time here, here are the must-see places not to miss:

• The Devundara Devalaya or Sri Vishnu Maha Devalaya temple: located in the heart of the city. It stands on the site of the old and famous historical complex of the city. This building has as its entrance a yellow-tinted vaulted arch. At its entrance, you will find an imposing modern Buddha statue, a replica of the one at Avukana. The central Hindu temple displays magnificent blue tones to properly represent God Vishnu. Near the Devale Vishnu, you can see a white, immaculate dagoba and vihara (Buddhist monastery). This completes the multi-religious character of the site.
• Dondra Lighthouse: this famous maritime lookout was built by the British in 1889. Of octagonal architecture, it rises 49 meters high in the middle of a charming garden. It was built to accommodate enormous Hyperradiant Fresnel lenses. Components that give this tower a great lighting range.

It is classified as one of the four international lighthouses on the island. This attraction represents a precious landmark for fishermen, sailors, merchant ships and diving boats. Still in operation, it is possible to climb its 7 floors and 196 steps to enjoy its impressive panoramic view once at the top. You get a breathtaking panorama of the ocean and surrounding beaches. However, this climb requires prior authorization from port services and payment of an entry fee of 500 Rs (negotiable).

• The Galge Sanctuary or Galgene: you will find this remarkable historical and religious building near the Raja Maha Viharaya Galgane Purana. This rectangular-shaped sanctuary remains one of the rare vestiges from the city's prosperous Hindu era. Dating from the 7th century, it is one of the oldest stone historical vestiges in Sri Lanka. Two scenarios exist regarding the reasons for its erection: some say it served as a memorial for King Rama, who died after a confrontation with the King Rama at Galge; others say it was the place of worship of the sun god. Perched on a high plain, you reach it by walking up stone steps. Around it, the view of verdant fields appears superb.
• Devundara Beach: compared to Mirisa beach, this beach is enhanced by its sandbars surrounded by rocky outcrops. Going there, you will have the chance to enjoy calm and clear water. The stretches of sand offer a charming spot to enjoy sunsets and sunrises.

Beyond these emblematic sites, it is possible to spend your days with surfing at Dondra Surf Point, and boat excursions to see whales up close. Dondra Bay is a favorite spot for blue whales between the months of November and April. You will be able to clearly see them diving and swirling in the water. A real treat for the eyes! If you're not a fan of boat rides, nothing stops you from admiring these great marine mammals from the top of the lighthouse.

Climate: When to Visit?

Similar to most Sri Lankan destinations, this city can be visited year-round. The tropical heat of the island reigns supreme there, continuously.

That said, the region proves sunnier and warmer between January and March. The thermometer reaches its highest levels (around 33°C in February) and the weather is moderately rainy (between 86 and 114 mm). Whether on the east, north or west side of the locality, these conditions appear very favorable for enjoying any type of activity: beach, visits and exploration.

We would however advise against the months of May, June and September if abundant showers are not to your liking.

Dondra is a small Sinhala town located approximately 6 kilometers from Matara. It is an integral part of the Southern Province of this Asian peninsula. On the map, you will find it at the extreme southern tip of the island, facing the Indian Ocean.

This southern city is quickly reached from the city of Matara. There are buses departing from its station every 15 minutes. Once there, these buses drop their passengers in the city center. Once on site, those wanting to head to its lighthouse can either catch a three-wheeled tuk-tuk or walk there.