Situated 400 km from Colombo at the northern tip of Sri Lanka, Jaffna is a destination unlike anywhere else in the country. Having recently emerged from an inter-ethnic conflict that lasted 30 years, the city is opening its doors once again to visitors eager to discover an entirely different facet of Sri Lanka. If you're seeking to break away from conventional tourist circuits, Jaffna is the ideal destination.

History

Jaffna is a city whose history remains recent. For 30 years, it endured a civil war that pitted the Tamils (Hindus living in the country's north) against the Sinhalese (the nation's majority ethnicity, predominantly Buddhist). It wasn't until 2009 that Sri Lankan armed forces ended the massacres that claimed nearly 20,000 lives. From 2010 onwards, the north began opening to foreign visitors. However, special permits were required for entry. True freedom to travel without local authority harassment only became possible from 2015 onwards.

Due to this prolonged civil war, Jaffna and the entire northern region were spared the massive urbanisation seen in other parts of the country. Indeed, some local residents were astonished when a train arrived in October 2014. This isolation is largely responsible for the cultural differences between the Tamil North and the rest of the country.

Today

Today, Jaffna still bears the scars of war. It is a remarkably peaceful city where, aside from a few colonial ruins left by the Portuguese, Dutch and British, there is little in the way of conventional attractions. Yet this is precisely what gives it its charm. One of the principal reasons to visit Jaffna is its atmosphere. Still unspoiled by mass tourism, the city radiates authenticity and offers a truly off-the-beaten-path experience in Sri Lanka.

Despite the marks left by numerous inter-ethnic conflicts, Jaffna remains a charming city with an interesting heritage worthy of exploration, even if only for a day. The city offers beautiful coastal walks and several sites worth discovering, including the Nallur Hindu Temple, the ruins of the Royal Palace, the Clock Tower (one of the city's major monuments, built to commemorate the 1875 visit of Edward VII, Prince of Wales to Ceylon), and the Jaffna Fort.

Climate and Geography

Located in Sri Lanka's northernmost province, Jaffna is the country's third-largest city after Colombo and Kandy. According to a 2014 census, the city is home to approximately 110,000 inhabitants. Climatically, this region generally enjoys favourable weather year-round. Compared to the rest of the island, the north is relatively dry. Only November and December should be avoided, as rainfall is frequent during these months.

There are several ways to reach Jaffna from Colombo. By car, bus, train, or even by air with Cinnamon Air (subject to availability). Jaffna does have an airport, though flights are infrequent. The best option is the train. The journey takes roughly the same time as driving—approximately 9 hours—but the train is more comfortable, and the scenery along the route is magnificent.